The memory that comes immediately to my mind is a little Greek bakery in Tarpon Springs, Fla., when I was about 12 on a family vacation. I stood before a case of sweets and baked goods each day in a seaside enclave of Mediterranean sounds and smells settled by Greek immigrants long ago. On the last night, we stopped by the bakery again, and my mom bought me the biggest piece of cake I’ve ever seen, covered in icing and chocolate shavings.

I can still taste it.

Pastry is memory. Walk into Campbell’s Bakery, and you can experience exactly what I’m talking about. Your guide is owner Mitchell Moore, who took the reins of the bakery in 2011 after what seemed to be an endless cycle of new ownership and failed attempts to recapture what Louis Campbell created in the 1960s when he opened the original storefront.

“I want to restore Campbell’s to where it should be in everybody’s mind,” Moore explained.

“I want you to see it the way somebody who is 70 years old sees it. As that place where your kids came in, and they got the cake pops every day and got all their birthday cakes from here, and they always got the tea cakes here, because nobody does them as good as us…

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