Mitchell Moore never thought he might spend the remainder of his life baking tea cakes. When he purchased the iconic Campbell’s Bakery in early 2011, Mitchell regarded Jackson’s favorite cookie with a bit of skepticism, maybe even a slight disdain. The decades old bakery had built their reputation on these icing-topped shortbread-like cookies? Mitchell was a restaurant pastry chef, with a thriving cheesecake wholesaling-business on the side. Tea cakes?

But Mississippians had been coming for Louis Campbell’s original tea cakes since 1962, when he opened his bakery. They kept coming when Mr. Campbell passed away, kept coming for the tea cakes through a succession of owners, kept stockpiling cakes when the surrounding Fondren neighborhood became a skid row in the 1980s and 90s. Mitchell has since fallen in love with Louis Campbell’s tea cake (he sells nearly a 1,000 a week, so how could he not?). And the generations of old and new Campbell’s patrons have fallen for the bakery’s new owner.

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